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Tag "lightroom"

A smattering dust can really ruin a good scan. Watching the local film processing guy drop your neg on his putrid floor (imbecile!) can raise your blood pressure faster than you can say C41!

So I’ve been having problems with little smatterings of dust on most of my scans. And the scanner I use doesn’t have Digital ICE (it’s an old Minolta – keepin’ it real). After using a few of the available software-based anti-dust systems out there, I remained unconvinced. On the discussion boards, people were saying to do it by hand. For bigger bits, sure, but a billion tiny grains…?

I decided it was simple to do better. I wrote (in the loosest sense) a Photoshop action which reduces dust, but doesn’t remove all the grain from the photo.

It is does all this with a difference matte made from the original (dusty) image, and a version that has been run through the Photoshop Dust & Scratches filter. Old school like.

It aint fancy.

But it is fast and reliable. Also, it doesn’t get rid of all the dust (yep, paint it). But will remove all that cocaine you chopped up on your negatives the night before… Or if you are more like me, the baby powder that they seem to sprinkle all my negs with when they leave the lab.


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See? The grain (mostly) survives. All that the matte is doing is revealing back to to D&S version of the image. Visually, it looks ok, and has probably saved me about a lifetime of manual healing brush time. Now you can get out there and shoot — post production is for the birds!

I make no guarantees this will work with your stuff. But have a go, it might.

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Greyscale Gorilla’s review of Aperture 2.0.

When Aperture 2.0 came out. I was pleasantly surprised to see that apple had dropped the price to $199. Early reviews of the software claimed that the speed issues were also solved, and the the new version was super fast. So far, so good. When I go take a closer look at the specs however, I am astonished to see that Apple Aperture still had no Curves. Thanks right, after all the criticism, Apple still decides to leave out the most flexible color correction tool available. I understand that Aperture is not supposed to be a full replacement for Photoshop. I don’t expect Aperture to have some esoteric Photoshop feature like Gradient Map, or be able to execute complicated layer based photo editing, but I am talking about Curves here.

And the follow-up:

Why did I decide on Aperture over Lightroom? It was the ease of use, and overall feature set that brought be back to Aperture over Lightroom. The full frame mode is GREAT. I can flip through all the images and quickly rate and process the best ones checking for focus. The full RGB levels editor in Aperture is actually MORE flexible than Lightroom’s curves. HOW? The ability to adjust the “quarter pointsâ€� on the levels graph allows one to emulate curves. It’s a little tricky to get used to, but after I figured it out, it all became clear. And, with the ability to adjust the red green and blue separate, I can do 90% of what curves can do.

And a different review going the other way:

I spent a couple of days with it and to be honest couldn’t see anything that would stop me pushing ahead with my migration to Lightroom. Ironically some of the new search options (â€�have adjustmentsâ€�) actually made it easier to manage the data migration. And whilst speed had improved, it still wasn’t snappy in the same way Lightroom is.

It seems to me the number one Aperture plug-in would be a curves tool. Number two would be Noise Ninja (or similar). And if only there was a way to save “looks” like there is in Lightroom, although someone has developed a work-around… (can’t find the link, but basically it was making a library of your favourite photo’s with their preset looks, and lifting and stamping from them – simple, but workable).

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POSTSCRIPT (to the last post): I have since tried to re-create this “look” in Apple Aperture (v2.0) but found I couldn’t “overwork” the dials as much as you can in Lightroom. Aperture seems to have very safe limits, even when you ignore the sliders and type numbers up to their highest value. I do think Aperture has a more “pure” approach to image processing… and the new RAW 2.0 conversions are very nice. But I think Lightroom handles shadows more delicately (it won’t crunch them as suddenly); plus it has curves. The tint wheels are too small in Aperture, I wish they were bigger as you can’t be very precise on such a tiny scale! The other thing that bugs me in Aperture is that you cannot reorder the modules, so that the processing happens in a different sequence. Lightroom also has this limitation, but it seems to be somehow less apparent, or maybe I need to get used to the tools…

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If I wanted to go the full monty on rescuing highlights, for example, I would prefer that it did this before it went through the Levels adjustment (which is pretty much your last chance to change the shadows and highlights, contrast, etc).

I have read online that Aperture works in float, although the user manual seems to have no reference to this. If true, a float pipeline would mean you couldn’t end up clipping an image in the whites or blacks – information would be preserved module to module, so if you did two contradictory adjustments (say, brighten in one module and darken in the next), the detail in the image would not be adversely affected. In most Apple products, this means 32-bit float, and they have it implemented (and documented) in Core Image, Motion, and Shake.

The trouble with Aperture is that you don’t get far into the processing chain to see that it is not working in float, at least module to module. If you crank the contrast up in the Enhance module, but try to pull the highlights down using the quarter tone controls in the Levels module, you will see that your image has been clipped. In fact, I would say that one would be best off not to touch a lot of the controls in the Exposure and Enhance modules, and try and get it all done in Levels, so that you are not losing too much detail in your image.

Maybe I don’t know enough about the Aperture processing chain, but it would seem to be a little better if you could “optimise” the order the modules worked. Because working in float can have ramifications on speed, it would be nice if you could define the bit-depth that you want to process at, switching say, from fast 8bit to create a rough “thumbnail” look, to a more refined float-based render for your final image. It means a bit of a coffee break, but at least you would have the option. This is a similar way to how you would use Shake, but for some reason Aperture doesn’t get the stable-mate’s bit-depth goodness.

Of course, Aperture does a lot of other stuff quite well. The difference between Lightroom and Aperture (or C1, Bibble, et al.) is becoming the modern equivalent of shooting Kodak or Fuji.

I like both.

REVIEW

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Shanghai Street #3

Shanghai Street #3, 08/2007

I took this picture down an alley in Shanghai last August. I can’t remember exactly where, but I know it was not far from Tian Zi Fang Art Precinct (or Taikang Lu). It just so happened that I was walking past this lane, and I saw an orange umbrella coming down it. It caught the light… I waited, and without trying to be too obtrusive, took the photo. I quite like lanes and urban landscapes, but having the mother and daughter in shot (complete with Mickey Mouse t-shirt), pretty much summarised my impression of Shanghai.

The point of this post, however, is how I came to this particular finish. The photo, or more precisely the photo’s colour, seems to polarise opinion. Is it good or bad? It doesn’t really matter. But I have had comments from people who love it, and one particularly strong opinion – and I’ll paraphrase – that it is an over-processed, painted-up, manipulated heap of crap (thanks Carl). I was accused of spending hours labouring over masks, touch-ups and other details to make the thing look like it does.

I wish I was that fastidious. Rather, I spent about 10 minutes in Adobe Lightroom making adjustments (as illustrated below).

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This is the original Canon RAW file. I took the photo with a EF-S 10-22mm on a Canon 20D. I underexposed about -1ev to try and keep the sky (seeing as I was almost shooting into the sun).[1][2][3] Exposure was 1/400 at f/13, ISO 400. As it turns out, I was able to get a fair bit of detail out of the highlights in the end…

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I don’t really have any set work pattern for Lightroom. I just sort of start at the top and work my way down. I do, however, have an idea of what I want to do to a shot. So maybe that helps. My idea was to go for something that looked quite polarised and pop-ish. It was Shanghai, after all.

I didn’t change the Colour Temp or Tint. I pushed up the exposure +1.15 stops to compensate for the under-exposure when I shot it. I usually underexpose digital stills to eek out a little more highlight detail. I’m sure there are those that would say this introduces more noise (it does), but it hasn’t really worried me so far.

The highlight recovery and shadow/fill sliders get a workout in this shot. I jammed them on full. Then I clamped the blacks to bring back some black.

I tweaked the contrast somewhat to get more definition. Then I turned down the saturation, which went a bit wild with the contrast. Give and take.

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I love curves. They make it so easy to make changes to and image, in a simple, tactile way. A curve with a histogram display behind it is even better (Aperture 2.0 lacks this function, which is a great shame).

A lot of what is happening in the tone curve has been affected by my previous decisions, but I have a fiddle here anyway, because it makes me look more pro.

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The colour panels are fun too. Well, the key colour in this shot is orange (the umbrella). I don’t really want to make it brighter, but I do want to make it pop. So I turn it to 11.

To stop the whole shot being absolute eyeball terror, I pull down orange’s neighbours–red, purple, and magenta. I boost yellow to look after the highlights in orange. I fiddle with the other colours a bit, but probably not to any great effect.

On the luminance side, because I am trying to fake a bit of a polarised look, I pulled the blue luminance way down.

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To warm the highlights up, I used the Split Toning panel. This is where all the tungsten colour gets added to the bricks and slightly forces the clouds towards the opposite part of the spectrum to the blue sky.
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Then, to take away the sickening orange-wash over everything, I bring blue into the
shadows. You can see this working prominently behind the legs of the girls.
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Finally, I add a little vignette, which makes a $1000 lens about as good as a $100 one, but pulls the sky down a bit and frames the girls better.

And that’s it. The ten minute Adobe Lightroom “Develop” process.

And the good thing is, when you already have set a look. You can save it and use it on a bunch of others. Which is about a two second Develop process.
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